Monday, May 23, 2011

Chomp and Circumstance

After several long days of traveling and apartment searching in Manhattan, I'm finally home (and freshly graduated) in my hard-to-pronounce town in southeastern Pennsylvania. My exhaustion would have otherwise prevented me from writing this evening, but I stumbled upon a blog virtually identical to my own (almost positively copied, as it was created after mine), and became inspired to maintain the status quo. So here I go...


My last few days in Atlanta were a whirlwind -- I was presented with the tasks of packing, passing French class (believe me, c'est plus dificile qu'il semble), and changing the font of literally every restaurant left on my list to strikethrough before I graduated. One of my final meals and by far the most memorable was dinner with my family at Woodfire Grill. Woodfire Grill is Kevin Gillespie's baby (Top Chef, Season 6), and without knowing in advance that he had recently moved back to Atlanta to become the restaurant's executive chef, I laid eyes upon his jolly red beard in the lobby; it was as pleasant as surprises come. Every customer was bombarding him with pictures, so I told him I didn't need one but instead shook his hand. I regret not taking a photo with him (I likely would have broken my "no pictures of people on the blog" rule for Kevin), however gauche it would have been.


Once a new group of high-pitched women made their way over to Kevin, my family and I were seated upstairs in a semi-private room at a long, medieval type table with five chairs, each about two feet apart. Our waiter informed us that we had "one of the best tables in the house." That evening, I had opted out of a graduation dinner with seventy-five other people (many of my friends' families), a slideshow, and a cash bar, so if intimacy is what I sought, then I had come to the right venue. I remember when making the reservation, the hostess asked if I was celebrating a special occasion. Sure enough, my response was not only remembered but also printed on the menu.


Why, thank you.



I begged my parents for the tasting menu; there was even a vegetarian option for Allie! But after learning that the tasting was blind (something only I would have been okay with) and required the entire table's participation, I was stuck with the a la carte section. Aw, man. Kind of like being stuck in first class instead of flying private. What a bummer.
Our waiter first presented us with an amuse-bouche of roasted beats, orange gilet, compressed radish, Espelette pepper (had to ask the server for the spelling of that one), crème fraîche, and chives. Despite the radish, chives, and pepper, the beats made the dish sweet (and turned my mouth a lovely shade of maroon). I'm not used to beginning the meal with sweet flavors, but this was just enough. And I'll eat anything served in a ceramic spoon rest.


Roasted Beets Amuse-Bouche



It's no secret that the best restaurants are so highly regarded not just because of the chef's skills but also the quality and freshness of the ingredients. Woodfire Grill's menu is printed daily and its creation is most unique; the restaurant orders its ingredients frequently and the menu is fashioned based on what's available. This is compared to most other, more traditional restaurants that write the menu first. I can attest to the superiority of Woodfire Grill's strategy after having eaten the spring vegetable salad, and I almost never order salads at dinner. But look at it! It was as if someone had literally handpicked the vegetables five minutes before our meal. It consisted of local baby carrots, asparagus, crispy baby artichokes, a "six minute egg" (descriptive of how long it's hard boiled), and béarnaise sauce. The béarnaise was a nice touch -- I'm definitely not used to seeing a heavy sauce like that on a salad, but I preferred it, as I do not have an eating disorder.


Spring Vegetable Salad


I forgot to photograph my second course prior to digging in. Silly me. What you're looking at is a (partially mutilated) oversized pan roasted day boat scallop with porcini powder, fennel pollen, a lemon-butterbean puree, and caramelized golden beats. I agree with you - the puree looks like mush or some type of custard, but it really served as a nice accompaniment to the scallop (and it helped me to slowly but surely turn my tongue back to its natural hue). Scallops are usually the kind of shellfish that taste like whatever you marinate them in, but even with the absence of the puree, I don't think this scallop needed anybody's help. My family and I learned from the waiter that all of the seafood served at Woodfire Grill is caught the very same day, which brings new meaning to "expedited shipping." It doesn't get any fresher than that.


Pan Roasted Day Boat Scallop
I'm not just saying this because I feel obligated after dining at such a fine restaurant, but my main course was completely unforgettable. It was not overly inventive or ornate, but it was one of the tastiest cuts of cow I've ever eaten. Many of you know that my love of food originates from red meat (see the interests section of my resume, which reads, "tennis, red meat, and shoes), and not only was this particular cut cooked to perfection (medium rare -- the only way to go), but it was a kind of hybrid between strip steak and filet, something I had never seen before. My biggest dilemma when going to steakhouses is choosing between the two cuts. I sometimes order a porterhouse, which I convince myself at the time will solve that dilemma, but really creates a new one entirely -- that is, I'm keeled over by the end of the meal (and the top button of my pants is undone). This was perfect. More flavorful than a filet but leaner than and not as tough as a sirloin. If I believed in heaven, this is what it would taste like (cue chorus: "ahhh!"). It was served with fork crushed red potatoes, wood oven roasted California asparagus, vidalia onions, and tarragon. 


Wood Grilled Natural Angus Beef Striploin
Before visiting Woodfire Grill, I had heard mixed reviews. The restaurant is generally well received by critics, but a good friend told me that she had tried the tasting menu and left hungry. Luckily, I did not have this same problem. The restaurant really is a special place, although understated and not over-the-top. I didn't get the impression, as I sometimes do with prix fix menus, that the chef was trying too hard to impress his customers. In this case, he didn't have to; the ingredients spoke for themselves.

As I sit here writing this entry, a wave of nostalgia has passed over me. I know it hasn't been long since I've left Atlanta, but it also hasn't been long since I've started missing it. I do feel, though, as if I've seen, done, and eaten all there is to see, do, and eat. Woodfire Grill was one of the last on my ever-shrinking list of restaurants to try in Atlanta. I'm not sure when, but I know I'll be back again someday, you know, just to make sure the food is still up to par...

Dine at Woodfire Grill
1782 Cheshire Bridge Road
Atlanta, GA 30324
(404) 347-9055

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Finch Me, Am I Dreaming?

Finally.

I feel like my entire life (well, at least the past three years) has been building up to this moment. For those of you who live in Atlanta, you may be shocked to learn that tonight was my very first evening at Holeman & Finch, a legendary establishment known for its unique menu and mouth-watering cheeseburger. My first piece of writing about food, published in an environmental sustainability magazine at Emory (I was the voice of reason), highlighted some of Atlanta's best options for red meat, including the Holeman & Finch burger. I didn't dare admit in the article that I hadn't actually tasted it, but believe you me, I had done my research, and since then have allowed it to be hyped by fellow foodies, friends, and even myself. This has led me to my current philosophy, where I will not photograph or write about anything that doesn't touch my lips.

I am still on a high from dinner and am completely overcome with emotion. My very close friend and dining partner for the evening compared my elation to the way she feels when she walks outside on a beautiful day. She was right -- this is what I live for. When all is said and done with my financial career, there isn't a shred of doubt in my mind that a profession in food will be my next venture, my true calling. And even though my friend doesn't get off from food like I do, I still found myself in good company (despite paying for 75% of the bill). She even took a walk on the wild side when she let our waiter surprise her with a cocktail; perhaps that was only because of me, but if so, I like that I've had that effect on her.

Holeman & Finch is a tiny (but wouldn't say "hole-in-the-wall" because the place is relatively modern) restaurant, but even on a Monday night, it was as crowded as Azuki on a Saturday (not a strong food reference but a good indication of what "packed like sardines" looks like). The place has just recently started offering its burgers every night, instead of only Thursdays through Saturdays, as was traditionally the case. Still, the burger is not on the menu, is only served beginning at 10:00 PM and sells out almost immediately. I wondered if any customers dine at Holeman without knowing the burger exists. Probably not.

I started with the hot dog, served with pickled jalapeño and "ball park" mustard (their own recipe; this place also does its own pickling). Hands down the best hot dog I've ever eaten. The meat was cooked to perfection and the homemade bun (similar to the bun that came with the burger) was soft and buttery all the way through while still maintaining some crunch on the outside.
 
"The Hot Dog"

Next came the richest dish I tasted that evening, a poached farm egg and griddled bacon, served with johnnycakes, sorghum syrup, and SEARED FOIE GRAS (note the caps to highlight my enthusiasm). If I were Jesus in a modern day rendition of the Last Supper, this would undoubtedly be my meal of choice (although probably better suited for a "last breakfast"). Each bite was more flavorful than the last, but next time I probably won't order this dish on the same night I eat the burger; I was a bit overwhelmed.

Poached Egg, Griddled Bacon, Johnnycakes with Sorghum Syrup, Seared Foie Gras
Point blank, I ordered too much food (no beating around the bush) -- but I'd always rather have this problem than the reverse. My third "entree" (all of the dishes were "small plates," but probably not small enough for my stomach this evening) was the farm egg and pancetta carbonara, which consisted of the restaurant's hand-cut pasta. Everything I ate this evening was made from scratch, and it was obvious. The pasta provided a nice contrast against the sweetness of the "breakfast" I had just devoured; I found myself alternating between the two.

Pancetta Carbonara
And, the moment you've (and I've) been waiting for, the Holeman & Finch burger. It's hard for me to come up with any words to describe it, as I don't believe any description could truly do it justice. Just stare for a few seconds and allow your mouth to water (which, trust me, mine did after waiting until around 10:15 to see it). Our waiter brought us the very first burger of the evening; what a doll.

H&F Burger
My friend and I also noticed that all of the waiters were wearing plaid shirts. When I asked ours if it was his assigned uniform, he replied, "No, we're just assholes." Quite the opposite, actually; I wanted to kiss the ground these waiters walked on. He went on to explain that he's worked at many restaurants and always tires of the food, but Holeman is a staunch exception; he eats there frequently and it remains one of his favorite restaurants in Atlanta. Not sure how could anyone get sick of an extremely eclectic menu with the freshest ingredients and a handful of good looking, well dressed waiters. The service was just as memorable as the food, and this is the kind of place that could certainly afford to let service fall by the wayside.

My first evening at Holeman was a shock to the system; it made me realize how passionate I am about food and how inspired I am by my taste buds. I smiled from ear to ear in utter happiness throughout the entire meal, and rushed home to write about it. I have several other friends who plan on going to Holeman & Finch for dinner tomorrow, and I'm seriously considering joining them. I suppose one can have too much of a good thing, but I won't start thinking of it that way until at least my 3rd night in a row...

Dine at Holeman & Finch:
2277 Peachtree Road NE
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 948-1175