Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Study Break of Champions


Amidst the not-so-craziness that is abroad finals time, my friends and I decided we needed a break. From what, exactly, I'm not so sure, but I do know I had previously made about three failed attempts to dine at Hiramatsu - an haute French, Michelin-one-starred restaurant in Paris's upscale 16th arrondissement. For those of you unfamiliar with Michelin ratings, here's how they work: one Michelin star deems a restaurant "very good in its category." Two stars mean excellent cooking and worth a detour, and three stars mean exceptional cuisine and worth the journey. Not every restaurant merits a Michelin star -- it's quite a prestigious ranking system, so to receive only one is still very highly regarded.

I was recommended this restaurant by my fellow friend and writer, Guest Star, and wasn't let down. I somewhat underestimated just about everything about Hiramatsu, from the dress code to the quality of the food. The men were wearing jackets and ties, the women in heels, and I was in jeans and an old sweater with my hair a mess from having walked to the restaurant in the rain after doing my investments homework (sounds fun, right?). Despite these "obstacles," however, I couldn't have felt more in my element, as the establishment was still rather small and understated. As my friends and family know, I practically thrive in restaurants like this, regardless of most everything but the food. There was, however, much else to regard; the décor was simple but elegant with slight Japanese accents, like the black and white marble ledge lining each wall. The ratio of of servers to patrons was enormous - I felt as if there was a different waiter for each course of our meal.

My favorite things about haute French restaurants are the little surprises brought out between what you've ordered. Perhaps I've just had good luck, but I have enjoyed virtually every "between-dish" (so I'll call them from now on) I've ever been served. I think their element of mystery keeps them appealing.

When I first arrived, I was greeted with a bowl of honey roasted pistachios (not pictured) and two types of pastries resembling miniature cinnamon buns, but flavored with blue cheese. Sweet and salty -- the perfect combination to begin my French/Japanese meal. I hadn't ordered either of these items, which means they fall into my aforementioned "between-dishes" category.


Our second course was another "between-dish" that included thin slices of smoked salmon served with wasabi cream over a fennel purée. Normally, when given the option of raw fish, I choose tuna, but this salmon was exceptional. It was the perfect thickness so as not to be too fishy, which is often my issue with salmon. The wasabi added the perfect Japanese touch, and the fennel just a bit of extra umph. Delicious.


So, what did I actually order? I thought you'd never ask. I can say with no hesitation that Hiramatsu's agneau (lamb) made a lasting impression in my mind. Though it was no more than a few hours ago, I can still taste the tenderness of the meat against the truffle reduction and the onion confit. And, as an added bonus, I discovered a slender piece of foie gras hidden underneath the slices of lamb. A wonderful surprise, indeed. If I were less civilized (and perhaps if I had spent the semester in Atlanta instead of in Paris), I would describe this dish as "finger lickin' good."


Ah, les desserts. There always seems to be more than one, usually because I dine with others and we like to sample different things, but I have a feeling at Hiramatsu I would have ordered each of these regardless. On the menu, all we saw were "caramel" and "chocolate," so we decided upon the following immediately. We were unaware, however, of the creativity that would follow.


This doesn't look like much (as a result of my excellent photography skills), but what you're viewing here is the Fondant au Chocolat Hiramatsu, which is dark chocolate with dark chocolate mousse inside and a pie-like crust on the bottom. It was served with a side of vanilla ice cream -- typical, you think, but it was all too complementary. This dessert was delicious, albeit one of the more traditional components of the meal. At the end, when there was but one bite left, I took one from the team by eating it -- don't worry, I asked first.

The second of our desserts was incredibly special. Below you can see our "caramel box" (similar in consistency to the top of a crème brulée) with a hybrid of vanilla mousse and vanilla ice cream inside. Next to the caramel box is a scoop of the most divine caramel ice cream (drizzled with caramel sauce) I've ever tasted. Additionally, and quite purposely I'm sure, there were little bits of caramel-ice in the ice cream, adding just the right amount of crunch to my bite. It's almost 2:00 PM in Paris as I'm writing this, and while I haven't eaten anything yet today (I just woke up), I would be thrilled for this dessert as a first meal.


Our last two desserts were complements of the chef. First came a plate of half-truffles (not pictured) -- simple but savory (I could always go for a truffle). Next, we were served pistachio mini-macaroons with white chocolate inside, each with their own spoonful of white chocolate yogurt and a white grape. A bite of the macaroon, then a taste of the yogurt and the grape to balance out the aridity of the pastry. It was an exquisite balance.


My meal at Hiramatsu was absolutely superb. Many times, with haute French restaurants like this, you get the feeling that the chef is trying too hard to be creative with either his food, his presentation, or both. This was not at all the case with Hiramatsu; everything was delicious and paired extremely well with one another. The transitions were smooth and, despite the European-sized portions, I left undoubtedly satisfied. The food was inventive without being excessive, which is just what I needed from my "study break." It was all class from start to finish. And, at the end of the meal, l'addition (the check) was served in scroll-form tied with a ribbon served on a silver platter. How's that for service?


If ever you're visiting Paris for a short time and are looking for one special meal, Hiramatsu should be it. It's delicious but subdued, and you'll leave feeling glad you made the splurge, not regretful. Although I suppose that depends on who's paying...

Dine at Hiramatsu:
52 Rue de Longchamp
75116, Paris
+33 1 56 81 08 80

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