Saturday's lunch was at a postcard-sized restaurant called Cal Pep, located in Barcelona's trendy Born district. Earlier that day (but not much earlier) I had rolled out of bed after a long, relatively sleepless night at a beach-front discoteca. It was 2:30 PM when we arrived at the restaurant, our first activity of the day, and I was famished. You can imagine, then, how I felt after an hour and a half of waiting to be seated, pushed up against a wall in a cramped restaurant. For the sake of Zagat and a few friends who had visited Cal Pep, my group and I decided to swallow our pride -- little did we know we wouldn't be swallowing much else for nearly ninety minutes. By the time we were seated I was so hungry I could have eaten anything -- and I did. I was finally placed next to a girl with dreadlocks and a piercing between her two eyes (who knew they could even do that?), so what excuse could I have had to eat conservatively (not that that's ever an issue)? I had to one-up her.
As you can see by the picture below, which I received many awkward glances for taking, the restaurant is extremely narrow and has a bar with only about 15 seats. If you look closely, there is a door with a round window in the back that leads to the "main room," which has about three tables, all of which are reserved for those smart, non-masochistic customers who decide to call in advance. I had obviously left either my brain or my means of reservation-making at home. And my phone was in my pocket, so...
My group and I opted not to view the menu, so the chefs were free to do their magic. I generally prefer meals like this, as they should be reflections of the chef's artistry and not necessarily of what you're craving at any given time. Our first plate was a toasted roll served open face with tomato and olive oil. It was good -- not mind-blowing, but good.
Next, arriving simultaneously, were the fried green peppers and fried seafood (calamari, anchovies, and prawns). Needless to say, it was the perfect meal after a long night out...
I couldn't bring myself to eat the anchovies as I'm usually not a fan (I tend to ask for them on the side of my caesar salad or forgo the salad altogether if they're mixed into the dressing). The calamari and prawns were both tasty, although in my state of restless hunger I was a bit too impatient to unwrap and devein each individual prawn.
You may think I'm finished, but I'm just beginning (keep in mind this wasn't all for me - there were four of us at lunch). After the fried everything, the chef prepared for us tuna tartare with sesame seeds. This was one of my favorite parts of the meal, and although it sounds Asian, it didn't taste anything like teriyaki or soy. It was very well flavored; the perfect ratio of salt to fish.
Our next dish I enjoyed just as much if not more than the tuna. We received a bowl of clams in a mouth-watering white wine and butter sauce with bits of bacon (not to be confused with bacon bits). I dipped the bread we were given into the clam sauce after the clams were no more -- it was fabulous.
Next came the "traditional" (for Spain at least) Spanish omelette, which consisted of potatoes, sharp cheddar cheese, bacon, and a bit of mayonnaise on top. It was quite good, definitely the most memorable of the omelettes I've eaten in Spain. We were seated about five inches away from the stovetop, so lag time for the food was next to non-existent. As a result, the omelette practically melted when I stuck my fork into it.
After the omelette came the most interesting dish I've eaten abroad. Below is a picture of our cuttlefish with chickpeas. I still can't decide how I feel about this dish -- it had a rubbery texture against the tongue but a similar consistency to the chickpeas after chewing it. This fish had a duller taste than most, which can be a positive while experimenting with new foods. It's doubtful that I'll ever order cuttlefish in a restaurant again, so it's a good thing I got my fix.
Still going...
The pulpo followed the cuttlefish. I didn't know this until I googled it, but pulpo is Spanish for octopus. It was served over baked potato slices with vegetables and paprika. I tasted the fish but managed to exclude the tentacles from my bite. It, too, was rubbery and chewy, but not necessarily in a good way. I won't be eating pulpo again.
And last but not least (if this were pulpo, it would be least), we ate grilled calamari with assorted vegetables. I preferred the fried version, but perhaps that was just as a result of my morning-after state. This calamari was, however, one of the freshest components of our lunch.
Forgive me for the quality of these pictures, but hopefully you get the idea. Overall, I would describe my meal at Cal Pep as one that seemed like it would never begin, then seemed like it would never end. The food was tasty overall, with several standout dishes like the tuna and the clams. Had I not taken pictures and diligent notes on my blackberry, the rest might have faded into my memory. Next time I'm in Barcelona, which I'm certain will be sooner rather than later, I will probably not return to Cal Pep unless a reservation is made in advance. While I enjoyed my experience and got the chance to sample new creatures of the sea, there are very few restaurants, in my opinion, that merit a 90-minute wait. I would recommend this spot for any seafood fan looking for authentic Spanish fare. And the fare, not too pricey but quite filling. The only things I needed after this lengthy meal were a napkin and a few more hours of sleep...
Dine at Cal Pep:
Plaza Olles 8
08003 Barcelona, Spain
+34 933 107 961
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